Built-In Closet Storage Installation

author Bob Vila   3 год. назад

281 Like   23 Dislike

How to Build a Custom Walk-In Closet // DIY - Part 1

I used some 5/8" Birch presswood, and steel pipes to build a custom Walk-In Closet for my master bedroom. There are 3 main units. The 2 outer units are made up of 12" by 12" compartments, while the middle unit has drawers. The drawers in the middle unit have compartments for belts, neck ties and sunglasses.

How to Trim a Coat Closet

Watch the full episode: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/tv/ask-toh/video/0,,20986158,00.html Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva trims a coat closet by installing a clothes rod and shelf. (See below for a shopping list, tools, and steps.) Click here to SUBSCRIBE to the official This Old House YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=thisoldhouse Shopping List for How to Trim a Coat Closet: - 1x5 clear pine - 1x12 clear pine - Metal clothes rod - Clothes-rod bracket - Construction adhesive Tools for How to Trim a Coat Closet: - Driver - Miter saw - Nail gun or hammer - Reciprocating saw - Caulk gun Steps for How to Trim a Coat Closet: 1. Use a stud finder to locate studs in the closet walls. 2. Cut three pieces of 1x5 pine to measured length using the miter saw. 3. Nail pine pieces together using a nail gun or hammer to assemble the shelf cleat. 4. Screw the two clothes-rod brackets to opposite ends of the cleat assembly using a driver. 5. Measure 5’4” off the floor and draw a straight line across all three sides using a level. 6. Dab construction adhesive with the caulk gun to the inside of the wall where the cleat will sit. 7. Line up the cleat to match the top of the level line. 8. Nail the cleat to the studs using a nail gun or hammer. 9. Cut the clothes rod to measured length using a reciprocating saw. 10. Measure across the top of the cleat to figure out the desired length for shelf. 11. Mark the measurement on 1x12 pine and cut it to length using the miter saw. 12. Place the pine shelf on top of the cleat and nail it to the cleat using a nail gun or hammer. Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House: Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ThisOldHouse Twitter: https://twitter.com/thisoldhouse https://twitter.com/asktoh Pinterest: http://www.pinterest.com/thisoldhouse/ G+: https://plus.google.com/+thisoldhouse/posts Instagram: http://instagram.com/thisoldhouse Tumblr: http://thisoldhouse.tumblr.com/

Turning an Attic into a Closet/Playroom

I converted some extra attic space into a closet & playroom! This video was sponsored by Energizer, check out their line of headlamps and flashlights at http://www.energizer.com/lighting Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2 MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS http://www.iliketomakestuff.com TOOLS & SUPPLIES (affiliate links): https://kit.com/iliketomakestuff/closet-custom-doors https://kit.com/iliketomakestuff/my-woodworking-tools https://kit.com/iliketomakestuff/shop-safety-gear Twitch Stream Every Wednesday @ 11am EST: www.twitch.tv/iliketomakestuff I WROTE A BOOK!! http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/makingtime Want to support ILTMS? Get exclusive content and more... http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/patreon BUY A SHIRT, STICKER, NOTEBOOK, DIGITAL PLANS and MORE!! http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store FOLLOW: http://twitter.com/iliketomakestuf http://www.twitch.tv/iliketomakestuff http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff http://facebook.com/iltms Technically, my house is listed as a 2-bedroom because the huge room upstairs that my boys live in doesn't have a closet. My grandad used that room as his art studio and not as a living space. So, besides adding some space for extra clothes, I am going to increase the value of our home by turning this area into a code-compliant bedroom. My boys' room is upstairs and the roofs are angled inward. The space behind the pitched roofs is all attic space. This empty space allows us to build into it so we can add the new closet. If you remember the bunk beds we built earlier in this year, you'd see that the wall we are building into also supports the top bunk of one of the beds. Having this as a design constraint, we are going to knock out the rest of that wall leaving the opening for the closet. Excitingly enough, the attic space behind the bunk bed is usable and will connect to the new closet giving the kids an extra playroom. Because this extra attic space is triangular, I wanted to bring some definition to the new closet. I framed out a small knee wall that would become the back of the closet. So that I didn't entirely block off the rest of the attic, I also framed in an access doorway in the pitched rafters. To create a space for the closet opening, I had to remove a row of wall studs. Because this wall supported the rafters above it, I had to add a header above the space to support the weight. I laminated some boards together, wedged them at the top of the planned opening, and supported it with two jack studs. all of these new supports were nailed into place. Now, instead of looking at the back of a framed wall,  we were now left with a big square of unsupported drywall. Now then, to block a lot of this heat from getting into the closet space and affecting he temperature of the room, I had to add a bunch of insulation. I used R13 pink fiberglass insulation stapled between the studs and the rafters. Where the fiberglass wouldn't work, I sprayed in some high-expansion foam to seal up all of the remaining gaps from the rest of the attic. This step seems pretty self-explanatory. But I was waiting to open up the space until we had semi-safe area. I didn't want to open up a potentially-dangerous job site to my boys' room for them to wander into when I wasn't around. Before we smashed the wall down, I scored the area around the opening with a utility knife so that the drywall would blowout and ruin the parts that would remain. But now is the time! I gathered the kids and we smashed through the wall together! It was pretty fun. Scoring the wall really helped the drywall break into manageable chucks for easy disposal and there wasn't a huge mess to clean up. For this project, I tried to avoid it at all costs but the reality of a finished closet/playroom without drywall wouldn't have worked. In the video, I didn't go into detail about putting up drywall, there are plenty of resources to help with that terrible process. I did eventually finish the drywall and my wife gave it a few coats of paint. In a regular closet, you can attach little cups to either parallel wall to hold a long rod. In our case, the bracket would have to attach the the pitched ceiling and hold a rod down from it. The easiest solution we found was to get two simple 90-degree metal brackets, attach them to the angled ceiling, and add a large wooden dowel to the hanging ends. This solution worked really well and by cutting a slot into the dowel and inserting the metal bracket, it kept the kids from hitting their heads on an exposed metal corner. This project was a big one. It had a lot of challenges and a lot project considerations. If you have a big construction project like this, you have to consider all of the hard parts and the tedious pieces before you can smash things and pick paint colors. Also, I am making some bi-fold doors for the closet, so look out for those as well. MUSIC: http://share.epidemicsound.com/iltms

How to Install Interior Bifold Doors

Installing an interior bifold door is an easy upgrade that can dramatically improve the appearance of a home. In this JELD-WEN Customer Care video, you'll learn how to install interior bifold doors. Find out more information at www.jeld-wen.com.

Better Kids Closet // How-To

I've got 3 little boys in 1 room and their closet was a WRECK. I made some simple shelving and added rods to make it WAY more usable. Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr Get $50 off your mattress purchase at http://www.casper.com/make Material cost: $112 for the wood, sockets, rods.. another $47 in cloth bins for the cubbies What you'll need http://amzn.to/1hGMlLt - Drill/Driver combo http://amzn.to/1IZxDbg - Wood glue http://amzn.to/1JeObO3 - Table Saw http://amzn.to/1JeOdFG - Miter Saw http://amzn.to/1gjdrqU - Angle grinder http://amzn.to/1T0GBNj - Cut off wheels MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS http://www.iliketomakestuff.com Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/support BUY A SHIRT, STICKER OR A HANDMADE ITEM!! http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store FOLLOW: http://facebook.com/iltms http://twitter.com/iliketomakestuf http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff Here's where we started, a typical single rod closet. I removed the shelf to reuse it. Using a pry bar, I removed the ledger that the shelf and rod were sitting on. I patched the holes with some spackling. I first cut the shelving top, since it was the widest piece. The entire unit was made from pine 1"x12". Then I setup a stop block, clamped to my table to cut the shelves all the same width. This stop block is well behind the blade, to prevent pinching. I cut all five shelves to length. I countersunk three holes in each end of the top piece. I spread glue on the opposite side of the holes I'd added. I set the top in place up against the side panels. I used a corner clamp to hold the pieces at a 90° angle. I screwed the top to the side panels. I did the same for the other side. I cut two pieces of scrap to the same size, to act as shelf spacers. I slid these pieces up against the underside of the top panel. Then I slid the next shelf up against the bottom of the spacers. This shelf was predrilled (with countersink) and screwed in on both sides. I followed the same pattern for the rest of the shelves. I avoided glue initially so that the pieces wouldn't slide around, but once the sides were completely on, I backed out all of the screws. Then I added glue to the end of each shelf. I screwed them all back together. The pre-existing holes helped line the boards up correctly. I measured the area under the bottom shelf and cut a piece to fit that space. I used some brads to hold it in place. All of the screw holes were filled with wood putty and sanded smooth. The whole unit was sanded and painted white. I found the center of the closet and set the shelf in place. Then I marked where the shelves hit the base board. Using a cheap multitool, I cut along the line to separate the trim. I pried away the trim pieces and patched the holes with spackle. I cut four pieces of 1"x4" pine to match the depth of the closet. I painted the top, bottom and one side of them white. (The other side doesn't need paint). I found a stud, then countersunk two holes in each board. I screwed in the top hole, and used it as a pivot point to level the board. Then I secured it with the second screw. I added a screw to each end, driving them into the corner studs. I followed the same method for the other three pieces. I set my old top shelf in place. I screwed it to the top of the new shelving unit. I measured out from the wall and screwed in a pole socket. Then I matched this location on the opposite side, and added the other socket. I did the same for the other three poles. Using a cut off wheel on my grinder, I cut standard closet rods down to four sections of the correct length. These pieces dropped right into the sockets. Finally, I cut two more pieces of pine to fit the gap on each side of the shelving unit. They were painted white, set in place and leveled. From the inside of the shelving unit, I drilled and screwed into the end of the shelves. Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2

Bob and carpenter Bob Ryley are working in the master bedroom building two storage units in the walk-in closet.

Comments for video: